Friday, September 25, 2009

Casino Cookies & Cultural Clashes

THE DATE ON THIS IS NOT ENTIRELY CORRECT. I started writing it on Sept. 25, but I just finished today WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 7, 2009.

I like all the consonance in the title, but there's not much significance to the "casino cookies" apart from the fact that I LOVE them. They are a delicious sandwich cookie that come from.. I want to say Argentina. They have a sweet toffee/coffee/caramel -ish flavored filling and are absolutely divine. They come 4 to a package and I go and buy in bulk so I get 6 packages at a time. I hate to share them because they are so good.

This is sort of a catch-up entry because I haven't written in a while so there will be a lot of random things...

Okay on to the cultural clashes. In addition to Callie, I also lived with a Haitian doctor. She is doing her residency at HHF and then returning to Port-au-Prince. Well, the day after my birthday, so almost two weeks ago, we had the most awkward interaction. Callie's godson's baptism was at our house followed by a party that Sunday night. I was asked to get a couple Prestiges (Haiti's beer) from the fridge for some of the guests. No problem. On my way out one of the neighbor boys said "Eske ou deja ouvri sa yo?" Have you already opened those? No, I didn't because i figured there would be a bottle-opener outside. I don't know, I don't drink here. He says that the doctor has one, so I go downstairs to her part of the house and say "Eske ou gen cle?" Do you have a bottle-opener? Then I proceed to speak in English because her English is better than my Kreyol. Alright well she lets me open them and all is well, people are happy they have their beer.

The next morning she came to my bedroom and told me she needed to talk to me. Turns out she felt I was very rude to her. She told me that she may have had help to go to med school but she is not poor. She also told me I could speak to the neighbor boys however I wanted to, but she has money and I need to give her more respect. I was so taken aback by the fact that she thought I was rude all I did was apologize and tell her I did not intend to sound that way. Looking back, even 10 minutes later, I wished I had told her "I'm sorry I sounded rude, but I don't care whether you have money or not. I would never speak differently to you than I would to the neighbors. I would never speak to people differently no matter what country I was in, whether they live on the street or in a mansion.." But, I did not. Oh well.

Many people are fascinated by my ears. I have 8 earrings (6 lobe, 1 cartilage, 1 rook) and people ALWAYS ask me why. I usually say, I don't know.. because I like it...? I was walking through a shortcut last week and a girl stopped me and said "Poukisa ou gen anpil bagay...?" Why do you have a lot of things ( points to my ears) And I gave her the usual response. Well, she got very serious and said "Eske ou konnen legliz? Eske ou priye a Bondye?" Do you know church? Do you pray to God?" I said yes. And she puts one finger in the air and says "Li di en sel." He says one only. I said "Li pa t di'm sa" He didn't tell me that... so she stood there trying to convince me that God said that we can only have one earring in each ear, and I told her that it doesn't matter to Him, that He loves us whether we have 4, 1, or zero. I don't think she bought it but I told her "M'ap mande l." I'll ask him. We both laughed and said bye. So that was a strange conversation, but it made me laugh, and it wasn't angry, we both left happy.

I receive a lot of mixed greetings/reactions here (as do all foreigners). Some people smile and say hello, some people smile and say whore, some people don't smile. You cannot make a general statement about "the people of Haiti" or any country because every person is different. It doesn't matter what you're from. When in Jeremie, being called blan can be considered rude. I don't turn my head when I hear it. If it's a little kid I'll say "ayisien." If we are "foreigner" then they are "haitian." If it's a little kid I can stop and talk to, I tell them that my name se Marissa, pa blan. Little kids do what they see, so you can't blame them. I like explaining that my name is not blan and it's not nice because maybe next time they won't say BLAN if they want your attention.

Most people here know that blan is considered rude. Out in the villages is a different story. It really just means foreigner which in itself does not have negative connotations.

Getting my (or other americans' i know) attention can be difficult for people. A lot of times boys and men make disgusting kissy noises.. you just keep walking, blan!... just keep walking, baby... just keep walking. Bonswa, bonjou, madmwazel.. these I will respond to. Kissy noises are not the politest way to begin a conversation.. so they don't.

There was group of taxis, and one of them was like EY BABY, BABY so I kept walking. One of the others said "li pa komprann." Easy to ignore, but I wished I had turned and said "Wi m komprann sa. Tout moun komprann 'BABY!'" Yes I understand that, everyone understands "baby!" It's nice when you get a chance to talk to people because then you understand each other and can talk about the ways you would like to be spoken to. (note: not EVERYONE is rude about getting attention.. just happens a lot.) But, any opportunity I get, I impart some tips on how to speak to a GIRL. Because it's not only American girls who don't like kissy noises or being called baby.

My favorite are children. Minus the kid on the way to the beach who thrusts and makes stupid faces when you go by. But, like I said before, you can't blame him.. he mimicks what he sees. Kids are easy to talk to, or make faces at, or tickle, or whatever. They are funny too because they are sometimes genuinely curious/fascinated by how different we look. I can't blame them for looking.. there's not a ton of white people here to look at. That's another strange feeling... to know you look completely different from anyone else... people constantly stare and talk and point.. etc. I've gotten pretty used to it now, I just smile back or say hello. It will be nice to land in NY for Christmas and blend in! That's something I'm looking forward to about being back in the states.

It has been 2 months already! I am 1/6 of my way done. I can't believe it's already been that long. I am so happy to have Ann and Marie Pierre here, and some new people coming. It's nice to have people you can really relate to and be outcasts together. If Callie left and there was no one here for me to spend time with, I honestly don't think I'd be able to stay here. I love what I do, but it's hard when it's lonely. When I was sick shortly after I arrived, I lay in bed for almost 3 days watching shows and movies on my computer, and had pretty much decided i was going home to stay in December. Ann saved me! I am so happy I am here =]

I moved into a new house this past weekend! I didn't want to be alone when Callie left, so now I live with Ann and Marie Pierre. We spent the entire weekend cleaning and moving in. Now I have screens, clean and comfortable places to sit, a gorgeous verandah (woohoo) and internet! Most importantly I live with two awesome girls I can talk to and have fun with in a place we are not entirely used to! I have pictures of my house and some other things that I am going to put on facebook, but I will start a shutterfly account or something for people who do not have facebook and want to see the pictures. I'll put the link up here when I do it.

Sorry this is so jumbled and random. Next post will be more about my job and what I do in my free time!

I've got to get ready for the beach! Another perk of living in the Caribbean =]

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